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Preface
Introduction
01. Warmth
02. Equipment
03. Climbers + Waxes
04. Water
05. Food + Cooking
06. Technique of Travel
07. Campsite
08. Shelter
09. Notes on Camping
10. Snow Formation
11. Compass and Map
12. First Aid
13. Injured
14. Ski-Mountaineering Test
15. Mountaineering Routes
16. Rock-Climbing
17. Ice-Climbing
Appendix
Resources
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14. The Ski-Mountaineering Test |
The ski-mountaineering test is a measure of the ability required for safe ski mountaineering. This manual comprises as much of the technique of the art as can be briefly explained by the printed page. To indicate the parts of the technique which are most important to requirements of the test, the test itself, and the suggested interpretation, are given here. They may serve as an informal examination on the manual for those who have no opportunity to take a formal test. It is suggested that the parts of a formal test not be taken too soon after instruction. For it is not the purpose of the test, or of its detailed interpretation, to encourage memorizing. It is intended, rather, to bring out the resourcefulness and to weigh the judgment inherent in every skier, and vital to the meeting of frequent challenges to ingenuity that ski mountaineering so happily provides.
The formal wording of each test part is below in italics, and is followed by explanation of the aspects which require emphasis. Chapter references are in parentheses.
The candidate must prove to the satisfaction of the judges that he has: (1) Passed the third-class test (3, 6).
The purpose of this test is to stimulate and measure the ordinary touring ability every skier should be ambitious to attain in order to enjoy all-day tours over mountain terrain. Fluency, assurance, steadiness are required, rather than speed. The demonstrations required are:
Four linked stem turns on a slope of 15-20°, de pending on snow conditions, executed slowly under complete control and separated by traverses with skis parallel, upper ski leading.
A right and left christiania to a standstill from a direct descent, starting the turns at a speed of at least 10 miles per hour. Stem, open, or pure christianias may be used; inside ski must not be lifted.
(Parts a and b may be on either hard or soft snow, but must be on such character of surface and must be executed with such stability and assurance that they indicate clearly an ability to execute these turns on either hard or soft snow. Judges may require execution on both types of snow.)
Sideslipping to right and to left down a smooth slope, traveling far enough in each direction to demonstrate control of sideslip and speed by edging and weight shifting.
Kick-turns to right and left, both uphill and down hill, on a slope of at least 30°.
Good form and effective propulsion on the level with the one-step and two-step. Rhythm and glide should be emphasized.
/) Step-turns to right and left at speed of approximately 15 miles per hour.
g) Ascent and descent of a standard course of approximately 1,000 vertical feet if available, but in any event not less than 800 feet. Climbing aids other than appropriate waxing are not permitted, and the candidate must demonstrate a knowledge of appropriate waxing. The course must include the variety of slope and terrain encountered in ordinary touring.
Alternative (for gradual terrain): Cross-country, continuous three-hour tour over variable terrain, with enough climbing and downhill running to test the stamina and steadiness of the candidate. Rest periods must be restricted to bare minimum required for terrain, altitude, and snow conditions encountered. Climbing aids other than appropriate waxing are not permitted, and the candidate must demonstrate a knowledge of appropriate waxing. Tour must be made at a steady and reasonably aggressive pace throughout.
2) Ability to use properly a topographic map and compass (11).
To demonstrate use of map and compass, the candidate should be able to:
Understand the fundamentals of magnetic declination; convert magnetic readings to true readings, an advice versa.
Determine on a map compass bearings of several courses of a route and explain the use of this information in a storm; plot on a map a given set of compass bearings.
Explain how to hold a compass course around impassable obstacles such as cliffs or streams.
Orient a map: by compass; by a known location on the map and a known landmark; by three known land marks; by sun and watch.
Locate position on a map by intersection of lines from known landmarks.
/) Identify unknown landmarks with the aid of the map; determine inter visibility of two points on a map.
g) Understand the fundamentals of contour topography; draw simple forms; recognize and explain forms of topography shown on selected United States Geological Survey maps.
h) Plan a week's ski tour from selected maps of high-mountain ski terrain, with particular reference to angle of slope, sun and wind exposure, avalanche hazard, probable timber conditions, showing campsite objectives, with alternate plans in case a severe storm or accident occurs at any point.
3) Knowledge of first-aid rescue technique, including the treatment of freezing, and the ability to construct and use a two-ski rescue sled (12, 14).
To demonstrate ski-mountaineering rescue requirements, the candidate should:
Know the first-aid measures taught in the Standard (20-hour) Course of the American Red Cross, with particular reference to shock, bandages, and splints.
Demonstrate an understanding of precautions that must be taken when caring for a man injured while skiing.
Demonstrate resourcefulness in improvising splints and bandages.
Explain the principles of "second" aid that would be used in caring for a man injured far from medical help.
Understand the first aid care of freezing.
/) Know the prevention and care of snow blindness.
g) Construct a two-ski rescue sled which is rigid enough to stand the strains of use. Knots and braces must be tight and efficient.
h) Explain the procedure of using a rescue sled, with particular reference to the means of keeping the victim warm and comfortable.
4) Knowledge of the basic principles of snow-craft, with special reference to avalanches (10).
The candidate should:
a) Explain the structure and hazard of wet snow, dry snow, and wind slab; the relation of anchorage and slope to avalanche danger; the basic effect of sun, wind, temperature, humidity, and time of day on snow in its relation to texture and avalanches.
Describe the precautions to be taken when traveling on slopes which may avalanche, including the responsibilities of the leader; review recommended conduct during an avalanche.
Show an understanding of the method of rescuing avalanche victims.
5) Toured on skis two full days during the winter sea son, with at least one overnight camp on snow, carrying an appropriate share of total equipment during the entire tour (1-9).
The candidate, on the tour, should:
Demonstrate ability so to use his energy that at the end of each day he has enough reserve to make and care for camp. He should show proper rhythm and stride, and should avoid loss of energy through chilling or over heating.
Show a knowledge of selection, preparation, and use of the campsite.
Know a few basic ski-mountaineering menus and be able to prepare meals in camp.
Show a degree of stamina that will enable him to carry his share of equipment and food and to keep up with an average party.
6) Knowledge and demonstrated ability to use equipment necessary for safely undertaking a ski tour of several days' duration (2, 6, 7, 8).
The candidate is expected to be able so to select and use his equipment on a ski tour that he can tour in safety and relative comfort. He should use properly: clothing, pack, skis, bindings, skins, tent, sleeping bag, stove, cooking utensils, first-aid and repair equipment.
7) Completed the ascent and descent on skis of approximately 1500 feet of elevation, preferably on a peak, demonstrating a knowledge of proper equipment (2, 6, 10).
The candidate should demonstrate an ability to climb efficiently, to handle himself safely in steep terrain, and to select a route of ascent and descent which will take advantage of snow texture and slope, thus making the best use of his energy.
8) Demonstrated ability on tour to cope with an average variety of snow conditions (6).
Steadiness in skiing should be shown throughout the two-day tour; the candidate should be able to recognize and maintain control in several types of snow, such as hard crust, breakable crust, powder, wind-cut, heavy, and wet. He need not show marked speed, but should not delay the party.
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