Preface - We are pleased that so many people have been irritated at finding this Manual out of print so long—and that they have finally shamed us into bringing it back, revised.

We are a little abashed that, after all this time, we haven't changed it much. We'll explain all this in a moment.

We are amazed that so many people bought the book in the first place, thus taking it through two editions— two printings of the second edition—and distributing far more copies than there are ski mountaineers.

Introduction - The wind had a mean edge on it as it curved to cross the crest of the Sierra Nevada and found us there, two thousand feet above the site of the Donner Party tragedy, trying to find out how to camp in deep snow. It was deep snow that caught the Donners' immigrants back in 1846. Thirty-six people died from cold and star­vation, and more would have starved, probably, but for cannibalism.

01. Warmth - The most important difference between sum­mer and winter camping is the necessity, in winter, of maintaining warmth. For a short time before the winter camper turns in, a wood fire built on green poles laid on the snow, or the small gasoline cook stove in the tent, will make available some heat; but by and large, both on the trail and in camp, the human body must pro­duce sufficient heat to maintain normal temperature.

02. Equipment - Equipment must be kept to the lightest weight consistent with reasonable durability and adequate pro­tection against emergencies. A light pack makes a trip more pleasant and control of skiing more certain. Even the robust man, who could easily carry much more, should always have as light a pack as possible, to main­tain reserve energy for emergencies and a reserve of carrying power in case of injury or fatigue of any other member of the party.

03. Climbers + Waxes - The running surface of the touring ski is always protected from direct contact with the snow by a composite coating called, in general, wax. This coating serves a triple purpose: to protect the wood from ab­sorbing water, to facilitate sliding, and to aid climbing. Base wax,—The first coating is the "base wax," and must be applied before the start of the tour. This is in­tended to be durable, to adhere tightly to the wood, to "take" well the running and climbing waxes later ap­plied, and to slide well if these should be worn off.

04. Water - The ski camper's water problem is much the same as that of the Ancient Mariner which caused him to lament

Water, water everywhere, Nor any drop to drink . . .

The need for water varies greatly. It averages about two quarts per day, but is more than doubled by excessive perspiration or by the extreme drying effect of air at high altitudes. Unless this physiological demand of the skier for water is fully satisfied, his efficiency and even his health may be impaired.

05. Food + Cooking - Food used in winter mountaineering must meet the following requirements:

The food must have minimum weight for adequate food value. About 4200 kilogram calories per day are re­quired by an active man on a mountaineering trip. Light­ weight is obtained primarily by using dehydrated foods and secondarily by selecting foods with a high caloric value. About 21/4 pounds per man-day of such foods are required.

06. Technique of Travel - Good touring technique will enable the skier to travel at optimum speed—farthest and fastest with the least effort and the greatest safety. It will make ski travel a sport and a pleasure. The purpose here is to follow the progress of a tour from start to finish, with a section devoted to each aspect of touring activity. Techniques which have stood the test of frequent use are suggested.

07. Campsite - It is not possible arbitrarily to lay down a controlling set of specifications for an ideal campsite. Much depends on terrain, climate, and type of shelter to be used. The importance of each factor will vary with condi­tions; for instance, if danger of avalanche exists, it may be that every other consideration will have to be sacri­ficed in order to find a spot free from this all-important danger

08. Shelter - Before starting on a tour the ski mountaineer should provide himself with the means of constructing a shelter adequate to protect him against the strongest wind, the worst snowstorm, and the lowest temperature he may encounter. Requirements will obviously vary with terrain and climate. Types of shelter range from the simplest bivouac caves and brush huts to complete igloos, tents, and multi-room caves.

09. Notes on Camping - Snow is an excellent heat insulating material, comparable to leather and asbestos. The heat of the body quickly warms a small snow structure to the freez­ing point of water (32° F), provided the snow walls are thick enough (at least one foot), and that all ventilation which is not necessary is excluded.

The amount of fresh air needed for a human being at rest is usually overestimated.

10. Snow Formation - Considering the excellent sliding surface that snow affords, the skier might well wonder, "Why doesn't this snow avalanche?" instead of "Will it avalanche?" Any rugged snow terrain demonstrates that the ava­lanche is the rule, not the exception. Almost as soon as snow falls, it slides from the steeper cliffs and rock faces. What kind of ground or rock surface, then, will hold it?

11. Compass and Map - Many are the tales of successful escape from disaster by storm, made possible by reliance upon a so-called sense of direction, or upon the legend that moss always grows on the north side of trees. The skier, how­ever, should bear in mind that there are perhaps many more tales of failure to escape disaster which never have been told, and, indeed, never can be.

12. First Aid - The ski mountaineer, when called upon for help in case of accident, must often give more than first aid, for he may be far from organized medical assist­ance. In addition to a thorough knowledge of first aid he should therefore be familiar with a few of the simpler medical procedures—so-called "second" aid. For the usual first-aid work, publications of the American Red Cross should be carefully studied.

13. Injured - Ski accidents are difficult to deal with because of the cold, the delay in reaching a doctor, and the ne­cessity for transporting the injured over snow. Fortu­nately, these difficulties can be overcome by the trained ski mountaineer. When the extent of an injury has been determined, shock treated, and any necessary splints placed, then—and only then—the patient is ready for transportation.

14. Ski-Mountaineering Test - The ski-mountaineering test is a measure of the ability required for safe ski mountaineering. This manual comprises as much of the technique of the art as can be briefly explained by the printed page. To in­dicate the parts of the technique which are most impor­tant to requirements of the test, the test itself, and the suggested interpretation, are given here.

15. Mountaineering Routes - The steeper and higher a mountain becomes, the more severe are the forces of nature that serve to tear it down. Wind, running water, changes of temperature, swift avalanches, slow-moving glaciers, ricocheting fall­ing rocks—these elements are ever at work taking a moun­tain apart, reducing it to low-lying sediments which, in ages to come, will rise again to new heights. Much of the skill of the mountaineer is devoted, during the specific acts of tearing apart, to being somewhere else at the time.

16. Rock-Climbing - Reasonable ability on rock comes first in pro­gressive schooling in the art of climbing in rugged terrain. Technique is easier to acquire on rock than on ice because rock is more comfortable to work on, requires little equip­ment, is far more abundant, and demands less judgment. Rock-climbing does not make a mountaineer, any more than does skiing, but it is a substantial start.

17. Ice-Climbing - Climbing on ice and rock requires the same niceties of balance, of avoiding objective danger, of main­taining a margin of safety. But ice adds a few complica­tions. The margin must be greater—the dangers are dif­ferent, as are the mechanical aids, whereas methods of correcting errors in judgment are less sure. And where the rock-climber must rely on nature's fortuitous placing of holds and ledges, hoping that he can put the jigsaw pieces together into a complex route, the ice-climber needs only the proper surface; if his technique is good enough, he can cut holds, belays, even bivouacs where he needs them.

Appendix - The ski mountaineer would do well to peruse this list before each trip, to be certain that he has omitted no essential item, as well as to ascertain which items among his equipment he need not carry. Weights, where given, are in ounces, and represent a minimum which the skier should strive to attain—or to better.
Equipment to Wear

THE END